Simple hanging kitchen towel, a knitting pattern

Materials: Cotton yarn (such as Sugar’n Cream), appropriate gauge needles (I used size 6), stitch marker, button (optional)

I have knobs on my kitchen cabinets, so I made the button hole with the intention of slipping it over the knobs. You could also make the top portion longer (double rows 6 – 11) and attach an actual button for closure if your kitchen cabinets have handles instead.

Top Portion

Cast on 7

Rows 1-3: K across

Row 4: K2, BO 3 for button hole, K2

Row 5: K2, CO 3 to close button hole, K2

Rows 6 – 11: K across

Row 12 (front side): K3, place marker, inc, K1, inc, K3

Row 13 (back side): K3, P3, K3

Row 14: K3, slip marker, K1, inc, K1, inc, K1, K3

Row 15: K3, P5, K3

Row 16: K3, K to marker, slip marker, inc, K1, inc, K to edging, K3

Row 17: K3, P to edging, K3

Repeat rows 16 and 17 until there are 27 stitches total on the needles ending on even row (front side)

Bottom Moss Stitch

Row 1 (back side): K across

Row 2: K across

Row 3: K across

Row 4: KFB across (54 stitches)

Row 5: P1, K1 across

Row 6: K1, P1 across

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until moss stitch portion measures around 10″ in length, or until your run out of yarn 🙂

Bind off

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DIY Simple Dollhouse

I used all cheap pine from Home Depot and paints and nails I already had. This project cost me around $20 and took maybe 2 hours total of work.

Materials needed:

(2) 21″ pieces of 1×8

(2) 19″ pieces of 1×4

(3) 19″ pieces of 1×8

(2) 15″ pieces of 1×8

Ability to cut four 45 degree angles on the ends of two boards

Nails/hammer

Paint or other finish (optional)

I bought all my boards at Home Depot and had them do the straight cuts there. I hear that Lowes charges per cut, but Home Depot does it for free. They don’t have the ability to do the 45 degree cuts for the roof pieces though, so I brought those home and instead of using our table saw (since I really only know how to use our scroll saw) I just used our big ol’ belt sander and sanded the edges down until they worked.

The two 15″ pieces of 1×8 are for the roof; the three 19″ pieces of 1×8 are each floor; the two 21″ pieces of 1×8 are the sides; and the two 19″ pieces of 1×4 are the back of the first two floors so the people/dolls don’t fall out. I just used a regular ol’ hammer and nails to piece it all together. If I didn’t hate our screw gun so much I might have screwed it together instead.

After it was assembled, I watered down some regular acrylic paint and brushed it on so it acted like a stain and I could still see the grain and knots in the wood. The colors turned out really bright though so after it dried I rubbed on some furniture repair stain stuff (Restor-A-Finish, specifically) that I had from a previous project and it worked perfectly to dull out the colors so it looks great in our living room now.

Easy project, very fun to do, and a hit with my daughter (it was a Christmas present). Her grandma outfitted it with some Plan Toys classic dollhouse room sets, and I had the Plan Toys dolls ready and waiting too. They compliment it perfectly 🙂

Acorn hat!

It could surely be better, but I’m darn proud!

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Here’s the basics of what I did with bulky yarn on size 9 needles using magic-loop. It fits my 19 month old–I’ll say it’s a 1 – 2 year old size…

Cast on 60

Do a 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 5 rows

Knit all stitches (stockinette) for 12 rows

Begin a sort-of moss stitch: k2, p2 for two rows, then p2, k2 for another two (looks like checkerboard squares) – knit 10 rows like this, so 5 “squares”

Begin the smaller sort-of modified moss stitch (you can tell I’m professionally taught, no?): k1, p1 for two rows, then p1, k1 for two rows

Time to start the decreases! k3tog, k1, p1, k1, p1 and repeat across for one row

k1, p1 across

Do another decrease row by p3tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, repeat

p1, k1 across

Decrease again by k3tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat

k1, p1 across

Decrease by p3tog, k1, p1, k1, repeat

Final decrease by k3tog, p1, repeat

I had 6 stitches left at this point, but YMMV because I’m not professional pattern writer. k all stitches left to make a little nub of an i-cord, bind off, and enjoy on little heads!

Round Yoke Toddler Sweater

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If you’re anything like me you’ll use this pattern more as an inspiration than an exact science. Well, I hope so anyway, because I’m no professional pattern writer! I love top-down sweaters though, and if you’ve done one before this will be familiar and you’ll likely just need the basics to get rolling. Have fun! I’d love to see some other variations!

Size 10 US needles
Approximately 130 grams of Knit Pick’s “Comfy Worsted Yarn” (75% cotton, 25% acrylic – machine washable!)

Yoke is worked in garter stitch using as many colors as you like. I used 4 and changed them every 2 rows. The body and sleeves are worked in stockinette with garter stitch edges.

Yoke:
CO 39
Rows 1 – 5: k across
Row 6: k4, [k1, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Rows 7 – 9: k across
Row 10: k4, [k2, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Rows 11 – 13: k across
Row 14: k4, [k3, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Rows 15 – 17: k across
Row 18: k4, [k4, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Rows 19 – 21: k across
Row 22: k4, [k5, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Rows 23 – 25: k across
Row 26: k4, [k6, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Rows 27 – 29: k across
Row 30: k4, [k7, k1f&b], repeat inside [ ] across until last 4 st, k4
Row 31: k across

Without knitting, count 25 stitches from both left and right sides and place a marker. Count 31 more stitches from the left and right marker and place another marker. The inside of these markers will become the sleeves.

Row 31: k to first marker, place sts on holder to next marker, k across back to next marker, place sts on holder to next marker, k to end
Row 32: k4, p across untill last 4 st, k4
Row 33: k across

Repeat rows 32 and 33 until body is desired length (mine is 6.5″ of stockinette from the bottom of the yoke)

Garter stitch edge: k each st for 7 rows, BO

Pick up 31 stitches for a sleeve and work in the round in stockinette with DPNs or magic-loop technique (I prefer magic-loop) and k each row until sleeve is desired length (mine is 6″ from the edge of the yoke)

Garter stitch edge: k one row, p the next for 7 rows, BO

Do the other sleeve, weave in the ends (stitching up the inevitable holes in the armpits), and you’re done! I added a crochet border to create button holes and cover up my color changes, but you can also add button holes along the way if you prefer, or it doesn’t even need a closure.

My finished garment is around 12″ long from neck to bottom and 10.5″ across the chest. It fits my 18 month old daughter (and likely would have fit her at a year, as well as continuing to fit until 2 or so).

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My model just woke up from her nap and is being bribed with cartoons on my iPhone. She is also wearing the most mismatched shirt, diaper, and Baby Legs. Even still, the sweater and her are cute!

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Knit bib and crocheted baby toy

These are really simple patterns that I just made up as I went along. Anyone could likely just look at these and make them without even reading further 🙂

Cabled Bib (knit)

Size 9 needles
Worsted weight cotton yarn
Tapestry needle

Cast on 30

P1, K4, P1 – K2, P2 across – P1, K4, P1 (front)

K1, P4, K1 – P2, K2 across – K1, P4, K1 (back)

Continue with the P1, K4 cable, P1 on either side of the K2, P2 ribbing for 5 rows (ending with a back side row)

Cross the 2 by 2 cable every other knit row, stockinette after 5 rows of ribbing

Continue until bib is square, end with K2, P2 ribbing for 5 rows

Cast off 24 stitches, continue right side cable – P1, K4, P1

Continue until neck strap is 1″ less than desired length, knit button hole (2 stitches)

Finish two more rows, cast off, weave in ends


To make button: http://www.ehow.com/how_4862520_make-yarn-buttons.html

I used plastic from some packaging and cut it to my desired diameter instead of buying rings. Stitch it on, and voila!

Ring Toy (crochet)

Size F hook
Worsted weight cotton yarn
Tapestry needle

Ch 6

Join together to form circle

Sc in front loops only until piece is approximately 6″ long (or until yarn pattern repeats evenly)

Fasten off, stitch together to form circle with tapestry needle, weave in ends

Cable Without Cable Needles Face Cloth


I wanted to learn to knit cables. I do not own cable needles. No worries, I didn’t need them! I also like quick little projects while I learn so that gratification comes quick.

Cotton yarn, worsted weight
Size 9-ish knitting needles
Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Cast on 24

Rows 1 – 4: K1, P1 across, repeat (4 rows total).

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, P1 (border). P4, K2, P4, K2, P4 (middle). K1, P1, K1, P1 (border).

Row 6: Border, K4, P2, K4, P2, K4, border.

Rows 7 & 8: Repeat rows 5 & 6.

Row 9: Border, P4. Slip 2 stitches off left needle (keep them in front of your work), purl next stitch on left needle, put slipped stitches back on left needle, knit those 2 stitches (first left cable movement!). P2. Slip 1 stitch off left needle (keep it behind your work), knit the next 2 stitches, put the slipped stitch back on the left needle and purl it (first right cable movement!). P4, border.

Row 10: Border, K5, P2, K2, P2, K5, border.

Row 11: Border, P5, left cable (slip 2 off needle, P1, knit 2 slipped stitches), right cable (slip 1 off needle, K2, purl slipped stitch), P5, border.

Row 12: Border, K6, P4, K6, border.

Row 13: Border, P6. Slip 4 stitches off of left needle (number 1, 2, 3, 4 from left to right), keep 1 and 2 in front of your work, put 3 and 4 back on left needle, then put 1 and 2 onto left needle too (new order: 3, 4, 1, 2), knit all 4 stitches (first left-over cable!). P6, border.

Row 14: Border, K6, P4, K6, border.

Row 15: Border, P6, K4, P6, border.

Row 16: Repeat row 13.

Row 17: Border, K6, P4, K6, border.

Row 18: Border, P5, right cable (slip 1 off needle, K2, purl slipped stitch), left cable (slip 2 off needle, P1, knit 2 slipped stitches), P5, border.

Row 19: Border, K5, P2, K2, P2, K5, border.

Row 20: Border, P5, right cable (slip 1 off needle, K2, purl slipped stitch), left cable (slip 2 off needle, P1, knit 2 slipped stitches), P5, border.

Row 21: Border, K4, P2, K4, P2, K4, border.

Row 22: Border, P4, K2, P4, K2, P4, border.

Rows 23 & 24: Repeat rows 21 & 22.

Rows 25 – 29: K1, P1 across, repeat (4 rows total). Cast off, weave in ends.